Recommendations for rescues and shelter
Pit bulls are wonderful family pets. Shelters and rescues should make every effort to place pit bulls in loving, stable homes with responsible owners. While our recommendations here and throughout the website may appear to be breed specific, many of these guidelines may be used for responsibly placing dogs of any breed.
Selecting Dogs For Adoption
As with all breeds, PBRC recommends that shelters and rescues temperament evaluate pit bulls prior to placing dogs for adoption.
Recommendations
There are many different temperament evaluation tools and protocols available, and many animal welfare organizations and private training facilities conduct training for shelter staff to learn how to perform temperament evaluations. At a minimum, dogs should be tested for social behavior; resource guarding; toy, play, and prey drive; and compatibility with other animals.
Dogs that demonstrate aggression towards humans, or significant aggression towards other animals should not be placed for adoption. Dogs with known bite histories should not be placed for adoption. Dogs with extreme shyness, aloof behavior, or overly independent dogs should not be placed for adoption. An American Pit Bull Terrier of correct temperament should be very people oriented, friendly even with strangers, and very tolerant of physical handling.
Owners who are surrendering their pit bulls for adoption should seek assistance for a temperament evaluation or a referral by contacting their local shelter or dog trainer, or go to the APDT website to find a trainer or canine specialist.
Puppies should not be placed for adoption until they are a minimum of eight weeks of age. If the mother dog is at the shelter, puppies should be kept with the mother until eight weeks of age, as she will teach them important social skills. Avoid placing a mother with a puppy in the same home and avoid placing littermates in the same home. As puppies mature, the potential for rivalry between a mother and puppy or a puppy and its littermate is much greater than if two dogs who are not related are placed in the same home.
When placing a pit bull up for adoption, rescues and shelters should label them accurately, i.e., if it is felt that the dog is an American Pit Bull Terrier, it should be noted as such on the adoption card or web page. If the dog appears to be a mix, it should be labeled as a pit mix, and if it is known what it is mixed with, that too should be listed. Avoid calling a pit bull something other than what it is (for example, Boxer mix) in an effort to increase adoptions. Doing so is deceiving to adopters, and may be the reason for an adoption return in the future when the adopter is suddenly made aware by his or her veterinarian, local Animal Control, insurance carrier, or landlord that the dog is a pit bull.
Spay and Neuter
It is imperative that shelter and rescue organizations spay and neuter dogs before placing them in adoptive homes. Spaying and neutering has many health and behavioral benefits to the animal. And equally important, spaying and neutering will help reduce further pet overpopulation. Visit PBRC's financial aid page for assistance with spaying/neutering dogs prior to placement. PBRC supports pediatric, or juvenile, spaying and neutering of puppies.
Housing Pit Bulls In A Shelter Environment
Adult dogs should be kenneled individually, even if they arrived at the shelter together. Many adult dogs, of any breed, can engage in problematic behaviors when housed in too small of a space such as a kennel. Problematic behaviors can include guarding resources from each other, or redirected aggression when an outside stimulus agitates them.
Some adult dogs can be matched with a play buddy for supervised playtime outside of the kennel, given proper dog-dog introductions. If the dogs can play appropriately and under supervision in a fenced area, providing playtime can be a great stress reducer. Some adult dogs may enjoy taking leash walks with other dogs. Parallel leash walking is a great way to introduce dogs, and also to socialize them without the pressure of a direct interaction. See PBRC’s tab on the top of this page Dog Intros.
Pit bulls are generally athletic dogs. They are also intelligent and playful. A kennel situation can be difficult for an athletic, bright, and playful dog if he or she is not given appropriate outlets to exercise both body and mind. Some ways that shelters can decrease boredom or stress from kenneling are provided her
Potential adopters should complete an application that includes personal contact information, residency information, and additional information about pet ownership. For example, questions seeking input on the applicant’s previous pet ownership history, veterinary reference, and training and care of the adopted animal, should also be included. PBRC has provided a sample adoption application for your convenience. PBRC recommends that caretakers of pit bulls carefully counsel their adopters by thoroughly interviewing them. Observe the applicant’s handling of the dog while you adoption counsel him or her. Some questions to ask yourself while observing the applicant are:
Please see our webpage tab for more information on screening potential homes for more information.
Knowledgeable shelter and rescue workers will be able to address questions about breed information, multi dog management, and training, both pre- and post- adoption. Reference checks and home checks are recommended. For additional information on conducting a home visit Home Visit Guidelines. All family or household members should be required to meet the dog prior to adoption. Adopters should be given as much information about the dog’s personality, current skills, training and exercise needs, as well as a medical history. Rescues and shelters should provide an adoption contract that includes expectations of the adopter as well as the organization’s return policy. Reputable rescues and shelters should be willing to take the dog back at any time. A sample adoption contract can be seen here.
If the potential adopter already has a dog, a dog-to-dog introduction should be done prior to adoption. Please see PBRC’s tab on the top of this page Dog Intros. . It may be necessary to do multiple introductions over time to acclimate the dogs. While some dogs prefer to be the only pet, many can be placed successfully with a compatible – and altered – dog of the opposite sex. Multiple dog households involving pit bulls require experienced owners who will be able to commit time to all of the dogs, and be committed to training and multi dog management, including separation of the animals when not supervised.
If you are conducting an out-of-state adoption, please be aware that PBRC may be able to send a volunteer to the applicant's place of residence for a homecheck before the adoption is approved. Make sure to ask us if we can help. If we don't have a volunteer in the region of the applicant, you should contact a local rescue organization and ask them if they can send someone that is experienced in dog placement to meet the applicant for you and do a home visit. Make sure the local shelter sends someone who understands pit bulls and has the knowledge to determine if this is a good home for a pit bull. You should correspond several times with the applicant. Don't be afraid to ask as many questions as you want. If the applicant is serious, he or she will be more than happy to answer you. Make it a priority to contact the applicant's references and ask them a lot of questions. Veterinarians are good references, and are usually very cooperative.
Before sending a dog out-of-state, we suggest consulting with local authorities for potential breed-specific legislation. Pit bulls are restricted and banned in many cities and counties. Please note that these dogs are the target of breed-specific legislation in many municipalities and states across the nation, and already has several breed specific restrictions against it.
Taking Time to Do It Right
Placing pit bulls in responsible, loving homes takes time. It may take months to find the right home for an individual dog. PBRC encourages shelters and rescues to take their time and thoroughly screen applicants and do the necessary checks. By taking time to do it right, you will ensure that the match is a good one for both the dog and the adopter and also avoid an unsuccessful placement and a possible return adoption. In addition, hastily placing pit bulls may result in putting dogs in situations of further abuse or neglect. Beware of applicants who are unwilling to follow your adoption protocol or who want to rush the process; a good adopter will understand why you are being thorough in your process.
Some adoption red flags:
Dogs that demonstrate aggression towards humans, or significant aggression towards other animals should not be placed for adoption. Dogs with known bite histories should not be placed for adoption. Dogs with extreme shyness, aloof behavior, or overly independent dogs should not be placed for adoption. An American Pit Bull Terrier of correct temperament should be very people oriented, friendly even with strangers, and very tolerant of physical handling.
Owners who are surrendering their pit bulls for adoption should seek assistance for a temperament evaluation or a referral by contacting their local shelter or dog trainer, or go to the APDT website to find a trainer or canine specialist.
Puppies should not be placed for adoption until they are a minimum of eight weeks of age. If the mother dog is at the shelter, puppies should be kept with the mother until eight weeks of age, as she will teach them important social skills. Avoid placing a mother with a puppy in the same home and avoid placing littermates in the same home. As puppies mature, the potential for rivalry between a mother and puppy or a puppy and its littermate is much greater than if two dogs who are not related are placed in the same home.
When placing a pit bull up for adoption, rescues and shelters should label them accurately, i.e., if it is felt that the dog is an American Pit Bull Terrier, it should be noted as such on the adoption card or web page. If the dog appears to be a mix, it should be labeled as a pit mix, and if it is known what it is mixed with, that too should be listed. Avoid calling a pit bull something other than what it is (for example, Boxer mix) in an effort to increase adoptions. Doing so is deceiving to adopters, and may be the reason for an adoption return in the future when the adopter is suddenly made aware by his or her veterinarian, local Animal Control, insurance carrier, or landlord that the dog is a pit bull.
Spay and Neuter
It is imperative that shelter and rescue organizations spay and neuter dogs before placing them in adoptive homes. Spaying and neutering has many health and behavioral benefits to the animal. And equally important, spaying and neutering will help reduce further pet overpopulation. Visit PBRC's financial aid page for assistance with spaying/neutering dogs prior to placement. PBRC supports pediatric, or juvenile, spaying and neutering of puppies.
Housing Pit Bulls In A Shelter Environment
Adult dogs should be kenneled individually, even if they arrived at the shelter together. Many adult dogs, of any breed, can engage in problematic behaviors when housed in too small of a space such as a kennel. Problematic behaviors can include guarding resources from each other, or redirected aggression when an outside stimulus agitates them.
Some adult dogs can be matched with a play buddy for supervised playtime outside of the kennel, given proper dog-dog introductions. If the dogs can play appropriately and under supervision in a fenced area, providing playtime can be a great stress reducer. Some adult dogs may enjoy taking leash walks with other dogs. Parallel leash walking is a great way to introduce dogs, and also to socialize them without the pressure of a direct interaction. See PBRC’s tab on the top of this page Dog Intros.
Pit bulls are generally athletic dogs. They are also intelligent and playful. A kennel situation can be difficult for an athletic, bright, and playful dog if he or she is not given appropriate outlets to exercise both body and mind. Some ways that shelters can decrease boredom or stress from kenneling are provided her
- Kennel breaks including daily walks, play time in a fenced area, biking on a K-9 Cruiser, car rides to a local park, etc.
- Supervised play time with an appropriately matched dog
- Obedience and trick training with volunteers
- Durable, interactive toys, including toys that are “stuffable” such as the Kong, Waggle, Buster Cube, Treat Ball, etc. Consider feeding all or a portion of the dog’s meals in such toys.
- Provision of chew items such as rawhides, bully sticks, sterilized bones, or Nylabones. Chewing relieves stress and also promotes dental health.
- Note: High value items such as food, toys stuffed with food, and chew items should be given to dogs while kenneled separately to prevent resource guarding and possible conflicts between dogs.
Potential adopters should complete an application that includes personal contact information, residency information, and additional information about pet ownership. For example, questions seeking input on the applicant’s previous pet ownership history, veterinary reference, and training and care of the adopted animal, should also be included. PBRC has provided a sample adoption application for your convenience. PBRC recommends that caretakers of pit bulls carefully counsel their adopters by thoroughly interviewing them. Observe the applicant’s handling of the dog while you adoption counsel him or her. Some questions to ask yourself while observing the applicant are:
- Am I comfortable with the way this person handles the dog?
- Has the applicant been receptive to information I am providing about this dog
- Does the applicant ask questions, and seek information about the dog, about training needs, health care, etc.?
- Do all the household members seem comfortable with this dog?
- Does the dog seem comfortable with all household members?
Please see our webpage tab for more information on screening potential homes for more information.
Knowledgeable shelter and rescue workers will be able to address questions about breed information, multi dog management, and training, both pre- and post- adoption. Reference checks and home checks are recommended. For additional information on conducting a home visit Home Visit Guidelines. All family or household members should be required to meet the dog prior to adoption. Adopters should be given as much information about the dog’s personality, current skills, training and exercise needs, as well as a medical history. Rescues and shelters should provide an adoption contract that includes expectations of the adopter as well as the organization’s return policy. Reputable rescues and shelters should be willing to take the dog back at any time. A sample adoption contract can be seen here.
If the potential adopter already has a dog, a dog-to-dog introduction should be done prior to adoption. Please see PBRC’s tab on the top of this page Dog Intros. . It may be necessary to do multiple introductions over time to acclimate the dogs. While some dogs prefer to be the only pet, many can be placed successfully with a compatible – and altered – dog of the opposite sex. Multiple dog households involving pit bulls require experienced owners who will be able to commit time to all of the dogs, and be committed to training and multi dog management, including separation of the animals when not supervised.
If you are conducting an out-of-state adoption, please be aware that PBRC may be able to send a volunteer to the applicant's place of residence for a homecheck before the adoption is approved. Make sure to ask us if we can help. If we don't have a volunteer in the region of the applicant, you should contact a local rescue organization and ask them if they can send someone that is experienced in dog placement to meet the applicant for you and do a home visit. Make sure the local shelter sends someone who understands pit bulls and has the knowledge to determine if this is a good home for a pit bull. You should correspond several times with the applicant. Don't be afraid to ask as many questions as you want. If the applicant is serious, he or she will be more than happy to answer you. Make it a priority to contact the applicant's references and ask them a lot of questions. Veterinarians are good references, and are usually very cooperative.
Before sending a dog out-of-state, we suggest consulting with local authorities for potential breed-specific legislation. Pit bulls are restricted and banned in many cities and counties. Please note that these dogs are the target of breed-specific legislation in many municipalities and states across the nation, and already has several breed specific restrictions against it.
Taking Time to Do It Right
Placing pit bulls in responsible, loving homes takes time. It may take months to find the right home for an individual dog. PBRC encourages shelters and rescues to take their time and thoroughly screen applicants and do the necessary checks. By taking time to do it right, you will ensure that the match is a good one for both the dog and the adopter and also avoid an unsuccessful placement and a possible return adoption. In addition, hastily placing pit bulls may result in putting dogs in situations of further abuse or neglect. Beware of applicants who are unwilling to follow your adoption protocol or who want to rush the process; a good adopter will understand why you are being thorough in your process.
Some adoption red flags:
- Adopter prefers an intact dog
- Adopter’s current dog is intact
- Adopter has had multiple pit bulls in the past but never for any lengthy period of time
- Adopter has given away previous dog or previous dog was ‘lost’ or ‘stolen’
- Adopter is unwilling to allow a home check
- Adopter cannot provide any veterinary reference though he or she has owned dogs previously
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FOSTERING PIT BULLS
Fostering is a wonderful gift for a rescued or sheltered dog. Fostering provides a dog with valuable in home experiences which can help find and keep a forever home from house breaking to basic commands. You also have an opportunity to really get to know a dog well which can in turn help make a good match with a forever home. The guidelines provided below can help ensure a successful fostering experience.
temperament and health evaluation
Dogs should first be screened for health and temperament before being placed into foster care. Your veterinarian can provide you with a complete health assessment. It is important that any health problems that could affect other members in the house hold be addressed. These can include kennel cough, viral diseases, worms, contagious mange, etc. All can be addressed and taken care of by a veterinarian. A temperament evaluation should be performed by someone who knows and understands the breed standard. The evaluator should also be able to read and understand canine body language. If you or your rescue do not have access to someone who is qualified to do behavior assessments, you can use this page on our website for information on evaluating temperament. When you have made the decision to bring this dog into your home to foster, we have additional information
separation from other pets
When you first bring in a strange dog, it is highly recommended that the dog be separated from other pets. It might be necessary to keep them separated depending on the dog that you brought in and the personalities of your existing pets. When you bring in a dog from an unknown background it is best to play it safe. You don’t know this dog and it doesn’t know you. It may not trust you completely based on its life experience. You need time to get to know each other before you add in the stress of other pets and having to get along. The first thing you need to do is establish a routine and stick with it. Dogs are very routine-oriented and establishing a routine and sticking with it will make everyone more comfortable.
Have this plan in place before you consider bringing home a new dog. Where are you going to put the crate, where is the dog going to eat, do you need to get baby gates or close doors? Where will you keep your dog supplies such as leashes, toys and collars)? Create a schedule of feeding, crate time, rotation of who is out with the family and for how long. It is important for all family members to be on board.
It is a good idea to consider keeping foster dogs crated and separated in a different room from the resident dogs. This doesn’t have to stay this way but it’s a good idea in the beginning, until you get to know your foster dog better. It could be a few days or a few weeks. Your foster dog needs time to adjust to coming into a home and sleep off its previous experience. If the dog came directly from a shelter, it may need a few days of quiet rest. Dogs come from shelters stressed and exhausted. It would be unwise to bring an exhausted stressed out dog right into your home and try to do dog introductions. After your foster has adjusted, you might progress to having the dog crated but with a baby gate across the door so the dogs can see each other. Depending on the dog and whether or not they have any crate anxiety, you could move up to removing the baby gate and allowing the dogs to sniff through the crate (one at a time only, not a crowd). While this activity is going on (one dog at a time), make sure there are no toys, food, bones or chews that are high value in the room or in the dog’s crate. That can create tensions and resource guarding. You can eventually move to where they are just separated by baby gates when you are around to observe their reactions to each other.
Before you decide to do dog introductions, with your family pets, please read over our pages on dog introductions If you have cats in the home, you should keep the dogs separated from the cats until you have evaluated the dog’s prey drive and disposition towards small furry animals. Some dogs will have too much prey drive and will never be able to live with cats. Be prepared.
Have this plan in place before you consider bringing home a new dog. Where are you going to put the crate, where is the dog going to eat, do you need to get baby gates or close doors? Where will you keep your dog supplies such as leashes, toys and collars)? Create a schedule of feeding, crate time, rotation of who is out with the family and for how long. It is important for all family members to be on board.
It is a good idea to consider keeping foster dogs crated and separated in a different room from the resident dogs. This doesn’t have to stay this way but it’s a good idea in the beginning, until you get to know your foster dog better. It could be a few days or a few weeks. Your foster dog needs time to adjust to coming into a home and sleep off its previous experience. If the dog came directly from a shelter, it may need a few days of quiet rest. Dogs come from shelters stressed and exhausted. It would be unwise to bring an exhausted stressed out dog right into your home and try to do dog introductions. After your foster has adjusted, you might progress to having the dog crated but with a baby gate across the door so the dogs can see each other. Depending on the dog and whether or not they have any crate anxiety, you could move up to removing the baby gate and allowing the dogs to sniff through the crate (one at a time only, not a crowd). While this activity is going on (one dog at a time), make sure there are no toys, food, bones or chews that are high value in the room or in the dog’s crate. That can create tensions and resource guarding. You can eventually move to where they are just separated by baby gates when you are around to observe their reactions to each other.
Before you decide to do dog introductions, with your family pets, please read over our pages on dog introductions If you have cats in the home, you should keep the dogs separated from the cats until you have evaluated the dog’s prey drive and disposition towards small furry animals. Some dogs will have too much prey drive and will never be able to live with cats. Be prepared.
other family members
As always, we recommend before making the final decision to bring a dog home that the foster parent sit down and talk with all household members, including roommates. It is important to get approval and ascertain willingness to help. Ground rules will need to be established about interactions with the foster dog. If there are young children in the home, we suggest keeping the dog separate until you have a better sense of the dog’s behavior towards children and you have had a chance to work through some basic obedience. It is important that all family members be on board with the decision to bring a foster dog into the home and agree with the guidelines you establish regarding its care. Introductions to your children should be done carefully, gradually and only after a period of observation of the dog’s behavior. We recommend the use of baby gates to assist in this process, after you have taught the foster dog to respect the use of a baby gate. PBRC recommends that children and dogs always be supervised by an adult when they are together and safely separated when they are not.
training
It is possible that your foster dog has never lived in a home before. It is going to be important not to make any assumptions about behavior. Dogs that have learned to fend for themselves on the street can be counter surfers and opportunistic eaters. If the foster dog is not housebroken or crate trained, crate training will be necessary. Do not assume that a dog has had any kind of training whatsoever.
To increase your foster dog’s chance for adoption it is important to incorporate basic obedience into your daily routine. It will add some mental exercise to the dog’s day and will further prepare him for a life with a new family. You can teach them to sit for everything from asking for attention to waiting patiently for a food bowl. Their adoptive family will thank you for it. In the training pages on the website we have a guideline entitled “Canine Parenting 101”
Obedience is a great way to train basic manners and self-control. You might also consider enrolling the foster dog in an obedience class to help improve his skills and make him more adoptable. If the foster dog is a puppy, you could consider enrolling him or her in a puppy class to start developing social skills with other dogs. Puppies also need to be socialized with other people, with children, and if possible, with other types of animals they may encounter. Please make sure that the puppy is properly vaccinated before taking him to places where other dogs have been.
Remember that you are preparing a dog for a life in someone else’s home. House manners are extremely important. Consider what other people may or may not want in their pet. While you might be ok with dogs in the bed and on the couch, a new family may not feel that way. Try to avoid spoiling the foster dog and do what you can to prepare them to enter just about any home. Don’t feed your foster table scraps as that will encourage begging.
PBRC has a training page to help foster families while encountering common behavior problems such as jumping, barking, pulling on leash, etc. Please visit PBRC's training page.
Positively Victoria Stillwell has some great training advice.
Positive training and methods that use positive reinforcement and behavior modification are always recommended over force based and dominance theory based techniques. Examples of positive reinforcement are lure-reward, clicker training and using treats and toys to reward positive behavior. Many problems can be easily resolved by providing basic care, exercise and obedience training. Your foster dog needs you to help it learn to live in a family setting
To increase your foster dog’s chance for adoption it is important to incorporate basic obedience into your daily routine. It will add some mental exercise to the dog’s day and will further prepare him for a life with a new family. You can teach them to sit for everything from asking for attention to waiting patiently for a food bowl. Their adoptive family will thank you for it. In the training pages on the website we have a guideline entitled “Canine Parenting 101”
Obedience is a great way to train basic manners and self-control. You might also consider enrolling the foster dog in an obedience class to help improve his skills and make him more adoptable. If the foster dog is a puppy, you could consider enrolling him or her in a puppy class to start developing social skills with other dogs. Puppies also need to be socialized with other people, with children, and if possible, with other types of animals they may encounter. Please make sure that the puppy is properly vaccinated before taking him to places where other dogs have been.
Remember that you are preparing a dog for a life in someone else’s home. House manners are extremely important. Consider what other people may or may not want in their pet. While you might be ok with dogs in the bed and on the couch, a new family may not feel that way. Try to avoid spoiling the foster dog and do what you can to prepare them to enter just about any home. Don’t feed your foster table scraps as that will encourage begging.
PBRC has a training page to help foster families while encountering common behavior problems such as jumping, barking, pulling on leash, etc. Please visit PBRC's training page.
Positively Victoria Stillwell has some great training advice.
Positive training and methods that use positive reinforcement and behavior modification are always recommended over force based and dominance theory based techniques. Examples of positive reinforcement are lure-reward, clicker training and using treats and toys to reward positive behavior. Many problems can be easily resolved by providing basic care, exercise and obedience training. Your foster dog needs you to help it learn to live in a family setting
Preparing for Adoption
As a foster parent, you are helping a rescued or sheltered dog prepare for adoption. You are providing them with the valuable experiences that comes with living in a home and removing them from a stressful sheltered environment. Finding your foster dog a home can take weeks, months and in some cases, a year or more. Foster parents of pit bulls should recognize that it will take time to find the right home and they should be committed to maintaining their foster dog until a suitable placement has been found. Fostering provides a wonderful opportunity to observe the dog’s behavior, learn about their preferences and help them become wonderful family members. This is an opportunity to teach them basic commands and in-home skills that will help them for the rest of their lives. The information that you gather during the foster period can help you and the rescue make the best match for the dog and potential adopter. We encourage rescues and foster parents to use the online listing service that we provide to help your foster dog find its forever home. You can see our recommendations on placing pit bulls on our Recommendations tab.
Screening Dogs
Home Visit Guidelines
Be prepared, saying good bye to your first foster dog can be hard. It can be very hard to let go, but fostering is very rewarding! By utilizing foster homes, more dogs can be saved.
By PBRC Volunteers
Screening Dogs
Home Visit Guidelines
Be prepared, saying good bye to your first foster dog can be hard. It can be very hard to let go, but fostering is very rewarding! By utilizing foster homes, more dogs can be saved.
By PBRC Volunteers
Socializing Your Pit Bull
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New pit bull owners often ask, “What is the best way to socialize my pit bull with other dogs?” There are many ways to do so! The age of your dog as well as his/her individual personality will help you determine which methods are appropriate for socializing your dog.
Pit Bulls under six months of age should be enrolled in a puppy class. Many obedience training facilities have classes specifically for puppies, and often part of the class time is devoted to off-leash play with other puppies. When seeking out a training facility, it is often helpful to observe the classes prior to attending so you can get a feel for how class will be |
Respect Respect your dog and the dogs of others... Don’t learn the hard way what your dog is capable of. Related Links Breed Information |
conducted and see if it is a good match for you and your dog. Off-leash play can be an important feature of a puppy class, but it should be done properly (i.e., does the instructor factor in age, size, and play style of puppies when organizing play groups?).
To socialize adult dogs, PBRC recommends that owners first carefully introduce their pit bulls to other adult dogs. A great way to introduce adult dogs is to take a nice long walk on leash together. Please see tab Introducing Dogs.
Some ways that adult dogs can interact with other dogs are:
While PBRC does not support any legislation or policies that are breed
specific, we hope that owners will make responsible choices and set their
dogs up for success and for safe fun!
To socialize adult dogs, PBRC recommends that owners first carefully introduce their pit bulls to other adult dogs. A great way to introduce adult dogs is to take a nice long walk on leash together. Please see tab Introducing Dogs.
Some ways that adult dogs can interact with other dogs are:
- Taking long leash walks with appropriately matched dogs of good temperament and good social skills and with known, responsible owners.Organized play dates with friends' dogs in a fenced area.
- Taking an obedience or agility class, where your dog will learn to focus on
- you in the presence of other dogs, and may also receive positive
- reinforcement in the presence of other dogs.
- While dogs can learn good social skills at a daycare or park, they can just as easily learn poor social skills in these largely unsupervised situations. For example, a dog that is fearful around other dogs can become even more skittish in a large pack of rowdy dogs. By the same token, a pushy dog may bully other dogs without a human to correct this behavior. The ratio of staff per dog in many dog daycare settings is so low, making it difficult to control the experience for each individual dog.
- Dogs in a pack act very differently than they do individually; even a
- well-socialized dog of good temperament can be drawn into “pack
- behavior.”There's no way to predict or know the behavior of the other dogs in the group at a park or daycare; many people take their dogs to daycares or dog parks with little understanding of their own dogs' tolerance for other dogs; there is often an expectation that “dogs will work it out” however this can occur in a way that results in injury.
- Dogs playing together for long periods of time in large groups with
- unstructured time or activities can result in inappropriate behavior. Some examples of inappropriate behavior that may develop or be rehearsed when unsupervised are: mounting other dogs, antagonizing other dogs, destructive chewing, and excessive barking.
- Dog playgroups need to be carefully selected by competent readers of dog body language and with an understanding of social canine behavior; there are many people, well-intentioned, operating dog daycares with very little experience with dogs and, in particular, with little pit bull experience.
- If something does go wrong, whether or not the pit bull instigates it, the
- pit bull is usually blamed; every negative incident reflects not only on the
- individual dog, but on bull breeds as a whole.
- If provoked in a fight, some dogs will not back away from a challenge. Whether your dog is the victim or the instigator, a negative incident can result in future problems during dog-dog interactions.
While PBRC does not support any legislation or policies that are breed
specific, we hope that owners will make responsible choices and set their
dogs up for success and for safe fun!
toddlers and Dogs
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Raising toddlers and dogs together can be safe and wonderful for both, IF you are an alert and consistent parent!
No matter how carefully you've taught the baby to "pet the puppy nice" NEVER trust your young child alone with your dog or puppy, EVER. No matter how gentle or well-trained you think your child is, when you're not looking, the child is wanting to do all of the things you won't let him do when you're around! Pro-active Safety Measures Supervision, SUPER-vision, Super-VISION! If you see the baby closing in on the unsuspecting dog, intercept him! Cornered dogs have no other choice but to tell the child to go away the only way they know how. Help them out of the situation before they have to. Surprise is one of the biggest reasons dogs spin and snap. A sudden reach, an impulsive hug, a handful of fur clenched tightly in a baby's fist or twisted lip or ear. Babies lose their balance and fall. You have to be there to catch them before they land on the sleeping dog! Think of a dog as a pair of pointy scissors. If you leave the room, take the kid or the dog with you or put it in its crate, exercise pen, kitchen behind a baby gate or some other place where he can't leave and the kids can't go. Teach the child to respect the dog's space Interrupt and redirect if the dog uses the kids for a jungle gym or the kids treat the dog like a stuffed animal. No pony rides ever! Teach your children from day one that the dog is not a toy. |
Additional Resources Dogs & Storks The first national dog and baby program for new & expecting families Dogs and Babies When you bring a new baby home, your dog will face an overwhelming number of novel sights, sounds and smells. 
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Children should never approach a sleeping dog, an eating dog, a dog with a toy or chewie, a dog who is tired, a dog who isn't feeling well, a dog who is worried or excited, a dog who has had enough petting for one millenium. Watch the kids and the puppy to make sure neither are acting inappropriately and that they are respecting each other's space. If not, then they lose the privilege of being together. Time-outs are as effective with puppies as they are with children.
Be aware of how the DOG is feeling
You want your dog to adore the baby, respect the baby, maybe even protect the baby. But their relationship is a two-way street. Make sure that both are enjoying every interaction. If they aren't, it's your job to step in.
Safe Haven
If you have small children or someone else's kids come to visit, create a safe place for your dog. Use a baby gate or something that the dog can get over or through that the child cannot. When the dog does not want to be bothered by the child, show him he can escape to his safe place, and everything will be fine.
Never put the dog in the position of needing to correct the kids.
Your dog deserves respect and peace and quiet. Kids don't appreciate being pestered constantly by their siblings and neither does your dog. When, day after day, the polite signals are ignored, the puppy eventually gives them up as useless and just goes straight to what works - snarl-snap and, if necessary, bite. 77% of all bites to children are to the face - probably because that's the part of the body that is invading and hugging and kissing and because a muzzle pin (open mouth across the offending pup's face) is how adult dogs correct invasive puppies. Your dog views small kids as pesky puppies.
Turn your back for even a moment,
and your child will be a child --
and your dog will be a dog!
If the dog is not able to get away from the thing that annoys or terrifies him, remember that "Plan B" is to try to get that thing away from HIM. The dog communicates that he wants to be left alone by looking away, moving away, showing his teeth and growling, all of which are proper social signals to avoid REAL aggression: biting. However, children are not dogs, and do not understand or heed this language, so it's important to BE THERE to intervene and give the dog a place to go where the child absolutely cannot follow. Again, this is where parenting and supervision are crucial to keep dog and child safe!
Individual breeds and individual dogs of the same breed have different temperaments and tolerance thresholds. Some are exceedingly patient and have a high pain tolerance and can put up with more abuse than others. Big, strong "dive into ice cold water without noticing" and "run through stickers and brambles without noticing" Labradors fall into this category ... but even these dogs have a limit and no dog should be forced to endure pain or torment in the name of being "good with kids." Well-socialized and trained dogs can be fine with gentle, respectful kids, but won't tolerate eternal pestering, hair pulling and "over-loving" that is typical of young kids and toddlers.
Remember... just because your dog likes grown-ups, doesn't mean he automatically loves children. If his early puppyhood didn't include kind and gentle children, he may see them as scary little screaming aliens.
If you are concerned about your child's safety, get professional help immediately.
The success of their relationship is up to you!
This handout may be reprinted in its entirety for distribution free of charge and with full credit given.
© CAROL A. BYRNES, Diamonds in the Ruff - Training for Dogs & Their People
You want your dog to adore the baby, respect the baby, maybe even protect the baby. But their relationship is a two-way street. Make sure that both are enjoying every interaction. If they aren't, it's your job to step in.
Safe Haven
If you have small children or someone else's kids come to visit, create a safe place for your dog. Use a baby gate or something that the dog can get over or through that the child cannot. When the dog does not want to be bothered by the child, show him he can escape to his safe place, and everything will be fine.
Never put the dog in the position of needing to correct the kids.
Your dog deserves respect and peace and quiet. Kids don't appreciate being pestered constantly by their siblings and neither does your dog. When, day after day, the polite signals are ignored, the puppy eventually gives them up as useless and just goes straight to what works - snarl-snap and, if necessary, bite. 77% of all bites to children are to the face - probably because that's the part of the body that is invading and hugging and kissing and because a muzzle pin (open mouth across the offending pup's face) is how adult dogs correct invasive puppies. Your dog views small kids as pesky puppies.
Turn your back for even a moment,
and your child will be a child --
and your dog will be a dog!
If the dog is not able to get away from the thing that annoys or terrifies him, remember that "Plan B" is to try to get that thing away from HIM. The dog communicates that he wants to be left alone by looking away, moving away, showing his teeth and growling, all of which are proper social signals to avoid REAL aggression: biting. However, children are not dogs, and do not understand or heed this language, so it's important to BE THERE to intervene and give the dog a place to go where the child absolutely cannot follow. Again, this is where parenting and supervision are crucial to keep dog and child safe!
Individual breeds and individual dogs of the same breed have different temperaments and tolerance thresholds. Some are exceedingly patient and have a high pain tolerance and can put up with more abuse than others. Big, strong "dive into ice cold water without noticing" and "run through stickers and brambles without noticing" Labradors fall into this category ... but even these dogs have a limit and no dog should be forced to endure pain or torment in the name of being "good with kids." Well-socialized and trained dogs can be fine with gentle, respectful kids, but won't tolerate eternal pestering, hair pulling and "over-loving" that is typical of young kids and toddlers.
- Teach the dog to respect the child's space Body awareness can be taught. "Careful, easy, slow." A child can have a great time enjoying the company of a considerate and respectful dog.
- Set the speed limit...the appropriate level of play. No jumping on the bed or banking off the couch. This is not road race 5000. All chase games, wrestling games, and ball games are outside games.
- Yield the right of way. Leaders go first through doors, down hallways and up and down stairs. Crashing into humans, large or small, is not allowed.
- Enforce stop signs and no trespassing signs. There may be places in your house your dog is not allowed. He doesn't need free reign and it's a message to bossy dogs that you own places in the house that he is not invited to go, like on the dining room table or kitchen counter! This also extends to high chairs and peanut butter sandwiches clutched in tiny hands.
- Provide a parking lot. A crate, a bed, a time-out and settle-down zone. Failure to follow the rules or exceeding the speed limit gets him sent to the parking garage immediately, do not pass go, do not collect $200.
- There may be special speed limits around school or hospital zones. Don't underestimate your dog's ability to understand the concept of "be careful around the baby" or "don't trip grandma" or even "watch your tail around the coffee table."
Remember... just because your dog likes grown-ups, doesn't mean he automatically loves children. If his early puppyhood didn't include kind and gentle children, he may see them as scary little screaming aliens.
If you are concerned about your child's safety, get professional help immediately.
The success of their relationship is up to you!
This handout may be reprinted in its entirety for distribution free of charge and with full credit given.
© CAROL A. BYRNES, Diamonds in the Ruff - Training for Dogs & Their People
So you love your pit bull, and you think you want another...
You love your dog, so much so, getting another will be twice as much love and fun….right? Like potato chips, you just can’t have one…. Possibly, some pit bulls do quite well with other dogs; others maybe not so much. Adding a second dog to your home needs to be thought about very carefully. The dog you select needs to be carefully chosen to fit with your current dog and your lifestyle. Having multiple dog households require owners to be much more diligent in their dog management and very consistent with training. We’ve put together some thoughts to help you with this decision.
Your current pet
Breed Information
Dog Introductions
Crate and Rotate
Recommended Reading:
Your current pet
- As an owner, you need to consider observing your dog in different situations with different dogs. Does your dog like to play? What is your dog’s play style? Is your dog the wrestling type or the chase and tag type? A relaxed and mellow dog? Is your dog interested in other dogs? It’s one thing to be social and it’s another to want to play with other dogs. Which type of dogs does your dog get along with more, smaller dogs, larger dogs, younger or older? How are your dog’s social skills? It is important to distinguish between wanting to play and pushing dominance displays. A good example would be: “My dog always wants to play with other boy dogs, the play is rough and tends to get pretty physical, sometimes the other dogs snaps at him, I don’t know why, he’s just a rough player”. More than likely the rough player is overstepping the bounds of good behavior and is being corrected by the other dog. These are important distinctions to make regarding your own dog’s behavior. Does your dog elicit negative reactions to his greeting style? This doesn’t necessarily mean you can’t get a second dog, you just have to be careful in your selection. You would want to choose a dog that compliments your dog and one that could help your dog gain social ground instead of lose it. You would want to look for a calm and confident social butterfly that is very forgiving of dog etiquette mistakes. You would not want to add a dog that has similar social difficulties as that could end with serious issues. Just as adding the right dog can sometimes improve your dog’s social skills, adding the wrong dog can do just the opposite.
- Is your dog a resource guarder? Does he hoard or guard toys? Treats? Other high value items? These are things that need to be addressed and considered before adding another dog. Many dogs do not like to share high value items. You truly can’t expect two mature dogs to share a food bowl without the potential for conflict.
- Consider going to a park alone. Yep, alone. Take time to observe other dogs playing so you know what normal play looks like. Be careful what you observe though, as there is a lot of bad behavior at dog parks, too, from rude to down right nasty. As a dog owner, you need to know what good play looks like as well as bad play. You should be able to identify how play might begin to escalate into bad play and catch things before they get out of hand. PBRC as a general rule does not recommend taking your pit bull to a dog park because there are not usually a lot of guidelines for behavior and a lot of owners don’t truly understand dog behavior. If your dog were in an altercation at a dog park - your dog (the pit bull) would shoulder the blame regardless of how it started. We realize it’s “profiling” but we want you to understand and keep your dog safe, for you, your dog AND the breed. If you have access to a good trainer who does puppy classes, you should see if you can watch their “free play” time. Become familiar with your breed’s play style. Pit bulls can play rougher than other breeds. If you have different breeds in your house, understand how each breed enjoys playing so you can head off possible negative encounters.
- Consider opposite sexes when considering another dog. Opposite sexed matches tend to do better as well as a difference in ages. If you have a male dog, you should consider a female dog and vice versa. If you have a young dog, consider a mature dog, if you have a mature dog, consider a younger dog. Every dog is different, these are just generalities. There certainly are cases where two same sexed dogs have gotten along, there are also just as many if not more dogs that have lost a home for not getting along with a same sexed dog. We receive mail every day from owners whose dogs aren’t getting along anymore. Generally, across all different breeds, there is less competition between opposite genders.
- Think long and hard about getting another dog. Are you sure that your dog will welcome another into the pack? Not all dogs do well in homes with multiple dogs. If your dog doesn’t really seem to like interacting with other dogs or has not done well with other dogs in the past, don’t think you can change your dog by starting with a puppy. Make sure if you add another dog that you want the other dog and you are willing to do what it takes to keep both of your dogs healthy and happy, even if it means housing them separately. Or you can choose to shower all of your love on your current dog and enjoy the fact that they like being an only dog.
- Consider training. Is your dog trained? I don’t mean house broken and sits for a treat. Is your dog obedience trained? Do they know more than just a few basic commands? It is important before you consider getting another dog that your current dog be fully trained. Training helps build a bond between dog and owner so they understand each other, work well together and that your dog will listen to you in sticky situations. Your dog doesn’t have to achieve its Canine Good Citizen, but it would be helpful. Having a well trained dog aids in the transition with a new dog. Your new dog probably won’t come with training. If your dog has no skills and you bring in a new one, things will be much harder. Check the recommended reading section at the end for PBRC recommended books.
- Have you crate trained your dog? Are you going to crate train your new dog? PBRC does not recommend leaving dogs together unsupervised. There are so many things that can go wrong when owners are not there to manage behavior, especially in a multi dog or multi pet home. While PBRC recommends crate training, we also recommend that dogs get sufficient exercise and training out of the crate so they are happy and healthy. The crate is a training tool and like all tools, it can be used for good and bad.
- Behavior problems? If you are currently having behavior problems with your dog, these need to be fixed BEFORE bringing in a new dog. Don’t think for a minute that getting another dog will solve anything. They will only get worse. Behavior problems often exacerbate during times of stress and change such as moving or adding a new dog. Not only that but your current poorly behaved or stressed out dog will teach these behaviors to your new dog. For information about finding a trainer near you, PBRC suggests you go to the Association of Pet Dog Trainers website: APDT - American Pet Dog Trainers
- Have you thought about whether you can afford another dog? Add up what you currently spend on your dog for food, toys and vet bills and double it. Owners need to be financially prepared for additional expenses. There will be twice as much waste to scoop from your yard or common area if you live in an apartment. There will be additional training costs for a second dog. Also, each dog will need to have exercise and social opportunities. They need to each spend quality time with their owner. They will not “exercise themselves” to save you time and energy. Having a second dog is twice the work of having one dog. Don’t let anyone tell you different.
- As mentioned in the bullet point above, each dog needs individual time with its owner. Having a household with more than one dog makes for some time management issues. Your dogs will be better behaved if they are treated as individuals instead of a group. Address your dogs singularly with training and social time. You will need to find twice the time you needed with just one dog.
- When you bring a new dog into your house, you have to be prepared for there to be an adjustment period. Realistically you should read some information about a “two week shutdown” if the dog is coming straight out of a shelter. The dog is going to need a few weeks to a month to adjust to your routine and your expectations. Going into it, you should be willing to separate the dogs for the first week and gradually introduce them. The new dog should have plenty of time to rest and recover from their previous life and slowly be introduced to what you expect. Interactions with the other pets in your home will need to be strictly supervised with you observing their behavior. If there are behavior signals that are negative, you may want to back up and take things even slower. Or, this may be a signal that it might not work out.
- What happens if things don’t work out? Think about this and discuss it with your family before bringing a new dog into the house. Will you keep this dog and house it separately or will you return the dog? You need to be aware of the shelter/rescue policies before you bring your dog home. Will they take the dog back? Or will they expect you to find it a new home? Some rescues offer trial adoptions before things become official. A reputable rescue will always be willing to take their dog back if the new home does not work out (this does not necessarily mean they will be there for you in 10 years if you change your mind). There are times that no matter how much preparation you have put into bringing a new dog home, it is just not the right match.
- Is there a history available? How much can the rescue or shelter tell you about the previous owner? Was the dog an owner surrender or a rescued stray? Was the dog a seizure or cruelty case? If a history is available, it is important to understand where the dog came from if possible.
- How dog savvy is the staff of the shelter or rescue? What have they observed while the dog has been in the shelter? Has the dog been in a foster home? If so, what can the foster parent share with you about the dog’s personality and training needs?
- Does the shelter or rescue provide you with a temperament evaluation? Are evaluations performed on the dogs in rescue?
- Does the shelter or rescue require a dog to dog introduction prior to adoption? If not, you should suggest one. Introductions can take several meetings on neutral territory. A rescue should be experienced and have a volunteer to help you. If they don’t mention doggie introductions, you may want to consider adopting elsewhere.
- Will this dog come with any basic skills? How much socialization has the dog had during its shelter stay or foster home stay? Depending on the foster home or shelter time, the dog may or may not have interacted with other dogs. It may not have had much interaction with shelter volunteers. You need to know what this dog is bringing to your home and how hard you will need to work to help the dog settle into a routine.
- What medical history is available? What has been done to this dog prior to your adoption? As an adopter, you should receive copies of all of the vaccinations and medical records for your new pet. A responsible rescue will have a dog fully vetted including spay/neuter. Your new dog should be spayed or neutered prior to you adopting it - if not, this is not responsible behavior on the part of the rescue and it should require an explanation as to why this hasn’t been done (health, medical, advanced age, etc).
- A knowledgeable rescue or shelter should be able to answer your questions about the individual dog as well as the breed in general. They should be able to point you to additional resources and be available to help you during the transition into your home.
- A multi dog home can be challenging. Be sure to see our reference pages and reading list suggestions for more information.
Breed Information
Dog Introductions
Crate and Rotate
Recommended Reading:
- Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson
- Leader of the Pack by Dr. Patricia McConnell
- How Many Dogs?! Using Positive Reinforcement Training to Manage a Multiple Dog Household by Debby McMullen
- Feeling Outnumbered: How To Manage and Enjoy Your Multi-Dog Household by Dr. Patricia McConnell
Dog Introductions
Introductions with other dogs can be a bit tricky with pit bulls. Some pit bulls simply will not get along with other dogs. Others may only get along with dogs of the opposite sex or may get along with a few, select dogs. There are some pit bulls who have poor greeting behavior but when carefully introduced, may end up doing fine with other dogs. And then there are pit bulls who are very dog-friendly. It is important to recognize what level of tolerance for other dogs that your pit bull has.
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When considering introductions, remember that some pit bulls do not enjoy the company of other dogs and it may not be advisable in some situations to introduce dogs at all. Respect each dog's personality and do not push dogs to 'be friends".
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HOW TO INTRODUCE YOUR PIT BULL TO ANOTHER DOG
Parallel leash-walking, on neutral territory with two handlers, is a great way to introduce dogs. Neutral territory means an area where neither dog has been or where neither dog resides. An unfamiliar, neutral territory is best to avoid territorial behavior in either dog. Both dogs should be wearing properly fitted collars and be on nylon or leather leashes. Prong collars, choke chains, and Flexi-leads should not be used when introducing pit bulls.
While taking a short walk, allow the dogs to curve around in a natural manner. (This is a strategy encouraged by trainer Turid Rugaas, author of "Calming Signals"). Both handlers should have a firm hold of their leashes, however, they should try to maintain a U-shaped bend in the lead. Taut, tight leashes may communicate tension to the dogs and should be avoided if possible. Avoid face-face, head-on introductions between dogs. Instead, walk parallel to each other, a few feet apart, and alternate which dog is ahead of the other. Also, do not allow a dog to greet another dog if he/she is dragging you towards the other dog or is misbehaving in any way (pulling, jumping, or lunging). Doing so will result in training the dog to misbehave to gain access to other dogs! The dog does not make the decision as to whom he will meet and when. You do!
If the dogs appear to be friendly to each other, allow brief sniffing with one dog perpendicular or "T-shaped" to the other, and then each dog should be called away by the handlers. If either dog stiffens, stands up on its toes, or shows any aggressive posturing, call the dogs away immediately and interrupt the interaction. It is important to interrupt before things go wrong so that you can preserve the possibility of a successful interaction at a later time. It might be necessary to take several walks, in different locations, over time. Multiple introductions in this manner give you a better read for how the dogs will do. Do not rush this process if the introductions seem 'iffy' in any way. Stop the introduction if either dog is showing signs of fear or aggression. Body language that indicates fear or aggression can include: raised hackles, stiff posturing, lip curling, growling, air snapping, tail tucked between legs, one dog avoiding the other or wanting to hide behind the handler, lunging, or freezing.
If the leash walking is successful, it may then be appropriate to go to a fenced area and have one dog on leash, and one off. One handler might work obedience with the leashed dog, while letting the other dog roam around, allowing them to get used to each other's presence and scent. Usually in this scenario, the resident dog is loose, and the new dog is leashed. This gives one dog the ability to safely check things out and move away as needed while you maintain control of the other dog. Make sure the yard or fenced area is free of items that may possibly trigger a fight such as high-value toys, bones, rawhides, etc.
When introducing dogs on leash, make sure that the leashes do not become tangled. Entangled leashes can increase tension and result in a conflict between dogs.
OFF-LEASH PLAY: KEEPING IT SAFE AND FUN!
If the dogs appear to be getting along and your leash walks have been successful, then you might try both dogs off leash. This should ONLY be done in a fenced, fully enclosed area. Always make sure that both dogs are wearing appropriately fitted collars and that there are two handlers present in case there is a conflict between dogs. Also keep in mind that pit bull play can be rough and that it is important to periodically interrupt the play before it escalates into a conflict. The handlers can interrupt the play simply by doing some recalls and then releasing the dogs to go play again. What a great opportunity to practice an important obedience skill - the recall - amid distraction!
We recommended having two handlers present when introducing a pit bull dog to another dog. A squirt bottle can be handy to deter inappropriate behavior, however, keep in mind that it will not stop a fight if one ensues. A water squirt bottle can be used as a mild deterrent for mouthiness, mounting, or other inappropriate behaviors. Handlers of pit bull dogs should be prepared if a fight occurs.
Please read information on how to prevent a fight and how to break one up if it occurs.
WHAT IF MY PIT BULL DOESN'T PLAY WELL WITH OTHERS?
Some pit bulls will not play well with other dogs, particularly in an off-leash situation. If you find that your dog gets too aroused during off-leash play, you might limit the time the dogs are off-leash together. For example, if you observe that your dog gets over stimulated after about 15 minutes of playtime, then stop the play after 5 or 10 minutes, before the dog gets over stimulated. Make sure you are praising your dog for appropriate play skills when he demonstrates them. In addition, make sure you select dogs with very good social skills for your pit bull to interact with!
If your dog cannot handle the freedom of off-leash play with the other dog, but did well during the leash-walk, then you may wish to do leash-walks only. Taking a nice walk together with another dog is still socialization!
Another way to socialize your dog is to take an obedience class. If your pit bull does not like other dogs, consider taking a class that is smaller in size. Also, ask the instructor if you can observe a class first to see the training methods used, the type of dogs in the class, and the skill level of the other handlers and their dogs. A beginner class with lots of bouncy, barky dogs may be too much for a reactive pit bull.
Do NOT be discouraged if your pit bull doesn't like other dogs; what is most important is that your pit bull is people-friendly!
INTRODUCING A FOSTER DOG TO RESIDENT DOG
If you are fostering a pit bull and currently have other dogs, it is best to wait until you have had a considerable period of evaluation and observation (at least a few days or even weeks) before doing introductions. Dog introductions can involve several stages of a process, which may be shortened or lengthened depending on the success of the introduction. It is important to take your time with introductions and not rush through them. Do not attempt to introduce dogs if you know very little about the foster dog. As a foster parent, you should never leave dogs loose together when unattended, even for a brief time. The foster dog and resident dogs should always be separated in different rooms or with crates when there is no one home to supervise them. Even if your foster dog and resident dog get along, it is still important to give each dog individual attention AND individual time away from each other.
Do not introduce a new dog to multiple resident dogs at the same time. Start with your friendliest or least reactive dog and gradually introduce them. Do not try to push introductions with several different dogs in the course of the same day. Crating and separating for several days, even a week, is a good idea. Your resident dog(s) know the dog is there and can see and smell a new dog in the home. Let them acclimate. There are other reasons not to introduce an unfamiliar dog right away, mainly DISEASE! The reason it is recommended to only introduce one dog at a time is that dogs act differently together (pack mentality), and you could potentially set things off on the wrong paw. A pack of multiple dogs greeting a new dog can be overwhelming.
It is recommended to remove high value toys, chew items, and possibly food bowls, from the dogs' access in the foster home. If you are not already schedule-feeding your pets, now is a good time to start. Free-feeding (i.e., always having a full bowl on the floor accessible to the dogs) may encourage guarding behavior or result in a conflict. Instead, feeding may be done in crates, which also helps with crate training. Or you can feed the dogs in separate areas.
Implement obedience into the daily routine, 'sits' for food, water dish filled, at doorways, etc. This helps maintain a routine in the home and improve basic obedience for all dogs in the home. See our "No Free Lunch" training page. Do not allow dogs to crowd or get pushy at doorways...too much opportunity for a conflict in a tight space. Teach your dogs a 'back up' cue and to 'sit' at the door.
You might also consider buying DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) to install in a home with multiple dogs.
ADDITIONAL TIPS AND CONSIDERATIONS:
Note: The suggestions on this webpage are not intended to be a substitute for having a professional trainer assist you with dog introductions. It is impossible for PBRC to address every possible scenario that could arise; this page is for informational purposes only.
Parallel leash-walking, on neutral territory with two handlers, is a great way to introduce dogs. Neutral territory means an area where neither dog has been or where neither dog resides. An unfamiliar, neutral territory is best to avoid territorial behavior in either dog. Both dogs should be wearing properly fitted collars and be on nylon or leather leashes. Prong collars, choke chains, and Flexi-leads should not be used when introducing pit bulls.
While taking a short walk, allow the dogs to curve around in a natural manner. (This is a strategy encouraged by trainer Turid Rugaas, author of "Calming Signals"). Both handlers should have a firm hold of their leashes, however, they should try to maintain a U-shaped bend in the lead. Taut, tight leashes may communicate tension to the dogs and should be avoided if possible. Avoid face-face, head-on introductions between dogs. Instead, walk parallel to each other, a few feet apart, and alternate which dog is ahead of the other. Also, do not allow a dog to greet another dog if he/she is dragging you towards the other dog or is misbehaving in any way (pulling, jumping, or lunging). Doing so will result in training the dog to misbehave to gain access to other dogs! The dog does not make the decision as to whom he will meet and when. You do!
If the dogs appear to be friendly to each other, allow brief sniffing with one dog perpendicular or "T-shaped" to the other, and then each dog should be called away by the handlers. If either dog stiffens, stands up on its toes, or shows any aggressive posturing, call the dogs away immediately and interrupt the interaction. It is important to interrupt before things go wrong so that you can preserve the possibility of a successful interaction at a later time. It might be necessary to take several walks, in different locations, over time. Multiple introductions in this manner give you a better read for how the dogs will do. Do not rush this process if the introductions seem 'iffy' in any way. Stop the introduction if either dog is showing signs of fear or aggression. Body language that indicates fear or aggression can include: raised hackles, stiff posturing, lip curling, growling, air snapping, tail tucked between legs, one dog avoiding the other or wanting to hide behind the handler, lunging, or freezing.
If the leash walking is successful, it may then be appropriate to go to a fenced area and have one dog on leash, and one off. One handler might work obedience with the leashed dog, while letting the other dog roam around, allowing them to get used to each other's presence and scent. Usually in this scenario, the resident dog is loose, and the new dog is leashed. This gives one dog the ability to safely check things out and move away as needed while you maintain control of the other dog. Make sure the yard or fenced area is free of items that may possibly trigger a fight such as high-value toys, bones, rawhides, etc.
When introducing dogs on leash, make sure that the leashes do not become tangled. Entangled leashes can increase tension and result in a conflict between dogs.
OFF-LEASH PLAY: KEEPING IT SAFE AND FUN!
If the dogs appear to be getting along and your leash walks have been successful, then you might try both dogs off leash. This should ONLY be done in a fenced, fully enclosed area. Always make sure that both dogs are wearing appropriately fitted collars and that there are two handlers present in case there is a conflict between dogs. Also keep in mind that pit bull play can be rough and that it is important to periodically interrupt the play before it escalates into a conflict. The handlers can interrupt the play simply by doing some recalls and then releasing the dogs to go play again. What a great opportunity to practice an important obedience skill - the recall - amid distraction!
We recommended having two handlers present when introducing a pit bull dog to another dog. A squirt bottle can be handy to deter inappropriate behavior, however, keep in mind that it will not stop a fight if one ensues. A water squirt bottle can be used as a mild deterrent for mouthiness, mounting, or other inappropriate behaviors. Handlers of pit bull dogs should be prepared if a fight occurs.
Please read information on how to prevent a fight and how to break one up if it occurs.
WHAT IF MY PIT BULL DOESN'T PLAY WELL WITH OTHERS?
Some pit bulls will not play well with other dogs, particularly in an off-leash situation. If you find that your dog gets too aroused during off-leash play, you might limit the time the dogs are off-leash together. For example, if you observe that your dog gets over stimulated after about 15 minutes of playtime, then stop the play after 5 or 10 minutes, before the dog gets over stimulated. Make sure you are praising your dog for appropriate play skills when he demonstrates them. In addition, make sure you select dogs with very good social skills for your pit bull to interact with!
If your dog cannot handle the freedom of off-leash play with the other dog, but did well during the leash-walk, then you may wish to do leash-walks only. Taking a nice walk together with another dog is still socialization!
Another way to socialize your dog is to take an obedience class. If your pit bull does not like other dogs, consider taking a class that is smaller in size. Also, ask the instructor if you can observe a class first to see the training methods used, the type of dogs in the class, and the skill level of the other handlers and their dogs. A beginner class with lots of bouncy, barky dogs may be too much for a reactive pit bull.
Do NOT be discouraged if your pit bull doesn't like other dogs; what is most important is that your pit bull is people-friendly!
INTRODUCING A FOSTER DOG TO RESIDENT DOG
If you are fostering a pit bull and currently have other dogs, it is best to wait until you have had a considerable period of evaluation and observation (at least a few days or even weeks) before doing introductions. Dog introductions can involve several stages of a process, which may be shortened or lengthened depending on the success of the introduction. It is important to take your time with introductions and not rush through them. Do not attempt to introduce dogs if you know very little about the foster dog. As a foster parent, you should never leave dogs loose together when unattended, even for a brief time. The foster dog and resident dogs should always be separated in different rooms or with crates when there is no one home to supervise them. Even if your foster dog and resident dog get along, it is still important to give each dog individual attention AND individual time away from each other.
Do not introduce a new dog to multiple resident dogs at the same time. Start with your friendliest or least reactive dog and gradually introduce them. Do not try to push introductions with several different dogs in the course of the same day. Crating and separating for several days, even a week, is a good idea. Your resident dog(s) know the dog is there and can see and smell a new dog in the home. Let them acclimate. There are other reasons not to introduce an unfamiliar dog right away, mainly DISEASE! The reason it is recommended to only introduce one dog at a time is that dogs act differently together (pack mentality), and you could potentially set things off on the wrong paw. A pack of multiple dogs greeting a new dog can be overwhelming.
It is recommended to remove high value toys, chew items, and possibly food bowls, from the dogs' access in the foster home. If you are not already schedule-feeding your pets, now is a good time to start. Free-feeding (i.e., always having a full bowl on the floor accessible to the dogs) may encourage guarding behavior or result in a conflict. Instead, feeding may be done in crates, which also helps with crate training. Or you can feed the dogs in separate areas.
Implement obedience into the daily routine, 'sits' for food, water dish filled, at doorways, etc. This helps maintain a routine in the home and improve basic obedience for all dogs in the home. See our "No Free Lunch" training page. Do not allow dogs to crowd or get pushy at doorways...too much opportunity for a conflict in a tight space. Teach your dogs a 'back up' cue and to 'sit' at the door.
You might also consider buying DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) to install in a home with multiple dogs.
ADDITIONAL TIPS AND CONSIDERATIONS:
- Be cognizant of different types of canine behaviors: resource guarding, barrier frustration, same-sex aggression, territorial aggression, etc. Any of these behaviors in either dog can complicate an introduction.
- Brief, repeated introductions over time that end on a positive note are far more beneficial than a long, drawn-out introduction that may become problematic.
- Once you are off on the wrong paw with a bully introduction, it's hard to 'undo' it. Better to go slow and be successful!
- Remember, it's always easier to prevent a fight than to break one up! Never trust a pit bull not to fight. Always supervise and remain relaxed but vigilant.
Note: The suggestions on this webpage are not intended to be a substitute for having a professional trainer assist you with dog introductions. It is impossible for PBRC to address every possible scenario that could arise; this page is for informational purposes only.